The Hidden Meanings Of African Attire
I am drawing this
title from an article that I read that I wish to share with you. However, I
want to make a few comments before I share the article with you.
One of the things
that I find most interesting about how people talk about Africa is that they
tend to think that Africa and its people are homogeneous. While they may share many similarities, they
are not exactly homogeneous. In fact,
there are many cultures and subcultures in Africa. First off Africa is a continent made of many
countries. The African Union recognizes
54 countries. These countries vary in so
many ways that it is virtually impossible to put them all together in one
description. Many times people who take
a cursory look at Africa tend to think they can apply what they learn about one
region, country or community to the entire continent. This approach leads many people in a
direction that is incompatible with the true essence of Africa, Africans and
their way of life.
The African
continent contains communities that are very industrialized to communities that
still live isolated from the world.
There are innumerable languages and dialects. There are innumerable
lifestyles, religious practices and cultures.
Africa as a continent is not a melting pot, but a place of
differentiation and cultural mores.
There are some
things that are intrinsic to the African experience, that is, the importance of
family and community, deep spirituality, an appreciation for nature and an
honoring of the Ancestors. Depending on
the region, climate and weather, there are festivals that acknowledge the
harvest, the weather changes, and various other customs that signify the
African's awareness of their environment and their connection to it.
There are people who
are nomadic and they tend to adapt to the environment or are nomadic because
the environment is not sustainable enough to inhabit for long periods of
time. Even the hunting styles vary from
community, village, country to country.
Again, Africa is not
homogeneous, and while researchers and pundits may wish to identify Africa as
one conglomerate of people, some often don't even realize that Africa is a
continent and not a country, it is virtually impossible to place Africa and its
people under one umbrella.
One thing that is
certain, everything that they do has purpose and meaning. Masks are made for specific purposes, certain
words are used to describe certain things for a purpose. Relationships are purposeful and leadership
is accountable.
Before the advance
of western civilization into the African experience, the elders were revered
and the children belonged to the entire community, every adult male is a father
and every adult female is a mother to all the children. Extended families and polygamy (polygny) is
quite ordinary in most societies and there is also a smattering of polyandry
where the women have more than one husband.
The priests and
priestess, elders and wise men and women have a high position in African
society across the board, and are respected.
Beyond that the
customary way that these social norms are displayed vary from community to
community, village to village and in some instance country to country,
although, that is even stretching it a bit too far.
When people begin to
discuss and even study African culture, they are remiss to attribute a general
broad brush to Africa, because it simply is impossible to do so. Over the past few years there have been
several African leaders who wanted to Unite Africa under one umbrella, calling
it the united States of Africa. Muamar
Gaddaffi had that in mind as well, but, without understanding the extreme
diversity of the many peoples who inhabit the African continent, what you
typically get is an elite group of elite officials who decide what is best for
"ALL" of the African people.
History has shown even with institutions like the UN or the EU, that it
is still very difficult to place a single umbrella over a very diverse group of
people.
I would also like to
mention that, in regard to this article, the focus is more on West African
style of dress. As you can see in my
slideshow, that there are different styles of dress across the continent, and
while West African style may be prominent or even more popular it does not
represent the entire scope of African attire.
It simply has become more popular in the eyes of the Western World who
view it, with the same lens they tend to view most things, that is, they tend
to pigeon hole and homogenize their perspective rather than take a look at the
diversity. For some reason this
diversity, makes it hard for them to understand what they are looking at so
they make it easier for them to digest by painting the continent with a broad
brush.
The Africans in
Diaspora throughout the world also represent a hodgepodge of diverse cultural
practices, languages and lifestyles. Then when they migrate to other countries
they tend to imbue some of the cultural norms of their new homes, while
attempting to hold on to that which they have left behind.
African people from
all over the continent have been the brunt of ridicule and racism for at least
the past 400 years. This was primarily
done to justify slavery. But as I have
stated before, if anyone wishes to build an empire they would not enlist the
services of non-skilled labor to help them do so. So to think that the Africans that were
brought out of Africa to build the "new land" were ignorant and
unskilled is a misnomer that needs to be eradicated from the annals of
history. Unfortunately, the Western
society and its educational systems have done their level best to perpetrate
the falsity that African people were ignorant savages, who knew nothing and had
to be trained like animals. But, quite
the contrary, they had to be divested of what they already knew and implanted
with the spurious belief that African civilization, culture and mores were
inferior to that of the European.
Even in some of the
commentary that I receive under some of my videos, it is plain and obvious that
people are simply ignorant of the facts and the contributions that Africans and
Africa have given to the world. But that
is another video and I won't go into that right here. But, instead, I will acknowledge that their
ignorance is not really their fault, if they were not taught any different,
than how can they know any different?
Therefore it's imperative for Black History, African History to be
taught all year round as a significant part of the educational curriculum in
the schools so that they can be informed of the true contributions that Africa
and its people have given to the world.
The invaders found
artisans, craftsmen, iron workers, gold smelters, brick layers, masons,
farmers, mathematicians, scientists, herbalists, educators, ministers, priests,
astronomers, and even magicians when they came to Africa. The idea that the
Africans they encountered there were ignorant and uneducated has altered the
world view of the African over the past 4-500 years and has cause a great deal
of ignorance to prevail around the subject of Africa and its people.
Today, a certain
curiosity has developed when it comes to understanding Africa and its
people. However, as it becomes more and more mainstream, my concern is that
even this curiosity will devolve into the same pattern of painting Africa and
its people with a broad brush. To understand the African, you must immerse
yourself in their culture, social mores and lifestyles. But, it has to be a specific attribution to a
specific territory or region rather than using the "melting pot"
scenario. It's a big bite and a long chew, but I would suggest a more localized
study of a particular region and especially through their native tongue if you
wish to understand them. Otherwise, you will make many mistakes and in some
instances offend the indigenous African who knows full well his own culture and
that what they do in Swaziland is not what they do in Nigeria! With that being said, let's go on to the
article.
"The
Hidden Meanings of African Clothing"
"The
Dashiki: The History of a Radical Garment"
Here it is important
to note that the term "dashiki"
is a Yoruba word references to the garment worn by men. The garment that is worn by women is called a
Buba. The man's garment is longer while
the women's garment is shorter. Cultural
appropriation of this garment can be scene across the African landscape and the
diaspora in a variety of patterns and fabrics with the Angelina print reaching
its hayday in the 1960's and having a resurgence in the late first decade of
the 21 century. In fact, various African
prints have been used to accentuate several fashion styles and modeling
runways. The customary styles found most
prominently in Nigeria and Ghana have become forerunners as their acceptance as
traditional African garments are most popular.
It was once noted to
me from an indigenous African, that the garment and patterns themselves mean
nothing compared to the individual who's wearing them. That is, at certain festivals one may notice
that everyone is wearing the same or similar print garments. The individuals wearing these garments are
empowered by their own essence and do not squabble about how another may be
wearing the same print. The uniformity may have Westerners shying away from
"looking like" or wearing something that is the same as another. Vying for their own uniqueness, they often
miss that it is the wearer and not the garment that is unique.
Also, the larger
more flowing garment worn by men in Nigeria is called "Agbada" or if
worn by women is called the "grand Buba" and the "Ntoma" or
large wrapped garment is worn by both men and women in Ghana West Africa. The shorter version of Dashiki in Ghana has
been referred to as "batakari" but Ghanaians will also call the men's
top a Dashiki. Additionally, the wrap cloth worn by women is called a
"lapa" by many Ghanaians or in their language "atade" or
small cloth.
Once you align
yourself with the style it is also important to know the country from which it
is herald. Africans among themselves are
quite aware of the distinctions between cultures and styles. They can identify
one another based on what they are wearing.
However, within the confines of cultural appropriation and a bit of
naiveté, a mixing of cultural styles of dress will be seen particular in
popular modern fashions.
Moving on to the next article
"The Dashiki: The History of a Radical Garment"
African
Head wear
Again we see a
variety of head wear or coverings that bespeak a continent of diverse customs
and styles. The customs vary and may
demonstrate the various stations in life of the individual who is wearing them.
For example, a married man or woman may wear their head covering in a certain
way. This lets the community know that
they are married. The same is true with
those who are unmarried or single.
The head wear
symbolizes the complete look, in other words, you are not completely dressed
until you have place a "crown" upon your head. Special occasions, festivals and the like
will have the attendees wearing a variety of head wear from simple to
extravagant.
In fact, in Ghana,
West Africa as well as in Nigeria, a single woman will not wear an over garment
or "apron" while the married or elder women will do so.
When indigenous
Africans see their cultural garments worn by those who are not indigenous they
make certain assumptions about the wearer.
It is only natural that seeing someone wear your cultural garments in a
manner that would be inappropriate within the cultural confines of your
particular country, community or village would garner a certain aversion from
the observer. In some cases, the
observer may even attempt to explain the "appropriate" manner and
occasion when such garments should or should not be worn, or simply, shake
their heads at the ignorance of the wearer.
Some may even go so far as to be offended.
Recently there was a
huge outcry about men wearing "skirts" or "dresses" as it
was seen through the Western lens, that these garments were mainly worn by
women. However, if you go back into
human history, and take a look at the clothing styles worn by men, you will
find that men have been wearing what appeared to be "skirts" or
"dresses" for quite some time. The "pants" as a style
strictly for men was introduced over the past few centuries while something
wrapped around the waist of a man was more often seen.
In Africa, the idea
of using a pattern also was outside of the norm. Men and women sewed and were
all considered tailors. In fact, it is
quite common to see men sewing particular when it came to the patterns of embroidery
that are seen accenting many African prints. It takes a very special skill to
create these beautiful "free hand" patterns of embroidery.
The advancement of
Islamic or Arabic culture into the African continent has its impact as well in
the style of dress and head wear for the men and the women. Interestingly
enough, the particular style that is/was worn by the Islamists has much to do
with climate and environment. Face coverings, in particular, have been worn by
many desert dwellers who are covering their faces to guard against the hot sun
and sand. Over time, this style became
equated with "Islamic garb" when in fact it is more the garb of a
desert dweller or nomadic person.
Huge debates have
been waged as to what is and what is not "Islamic" garb and how and
who should wear what. But further study and research will bring to mind, that
much of what is worn by a people is indigenous to their surroundings and
environment and not necessarily due to their religion. Do not be confused by this. There are many people who are Islamic and are
quite comfortable wearing Islamic garb in any environment. The Arabic style has become the Islamic style
and many will find no difficulty donning these garments proudly and with great
reverence. To them, it represents what
they stand for and has a unifying effect on those who call themselves followers
of the Islamic faith.
What I wish to
present in this video is the importance of "knowing" what you are
wearing and in that way you can avoid erroneous cultural appropriation. It may seem insignificant to the Western or
modern mind, but it means much more than can be stated in a short video on the
topic. Take a moment and do your own
research. Be aware of the political,
economic, cultural and even spiritual significance of the African garments you
chose to wear. Educate yourself about
the history and purpose of the garments.
Empower yourself with this knowledge.
And share this knowledge with others.
It is one thing to
celebrate African History during Black history month by wearing African garb
but I feel that it is most important, that we wear Africa in our hearts instead
of simply displaying Africa in our styles and fashions. Let's preserve the significance, meaning and
power behind the garb and revel in the knowledge of the diversity as well as
the commonality that we find on the African continent and the African Diaspora.
More Reading:
The
Hidden Meanings of African Clothing
10
Beautiful African Traditional Wedding Attires - Culture (1) - Nairaland
Dive
into the unique history and revolutionary politics of the symbolic West African
garment.
African
Men Native Style People Are Talking About
Trending
Now: Angelina-Print Dashiki Fashion
List
of countries in Africa
The
AU does have 54 members
Working out how many
members there are of the African Union is indeed quite easy.
As set out on this list, it has 54 members.
One of them – the Central African Republic – though still a
member is suspended, or “under political sanction” following a coup.
So is that the
answer? Africa comprises 54 countries, all members of the AU.
Well no, because not
all Africa’s countries are in fact AU members.
We
can build United States of Africa, Gaddafi says
United
States of Africa: Problem, or Solution?
Amerikkkan
Culture is a Bourgeois Culture
UNITED STATES OF AFRICA
The
Story Behind Ghana's "Kente" Cloth
You
are not legally married to an Anlo woman without this major ritual
22 Amazing Photos From Ghana Ewe Kente Festival 2015 You Need To
See
Traditionally,
weaving is a men activity by both Ewe and Ashanti tribes.
Challenges
in Weaving
Ghana's clothing industry versus British chain store cast-offs
http://www.viva.co.nz/article/fashion/ghanas-clothing-industry-versus-british-chain-store-cast-offs/
However,
inauthentic versions of kente, often made of polyester, have flooded the
Ghanaian market. The designs of original kente patterns are copied and
mass-produced in Asian factories. These cheap copies have devalued authentic
kente fabric and there is a risk that it might lose its special cultural
significance.
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